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High and low

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We’re going to finish this walk around the block by starting out at the northwest corner of Main and W. Fourth Street, the site of the Park Hotel. Head west on Fourth and you’ll come to the pink four-story Waterland-Breslauer building. It and the Nottelman building on Third Street are this block’s principal ties to the past.

The E-R recently ran a series about downtown Chico written by students in Dave Waddell’s advanced reporting class at Chico State University. A story by Vince Abbate gave a history of the 96-year-old building. Abbate writes that at the time it was built, Waterland-Breslauer was one of the most modern structures in Northern California. The building has an equally distinguished predecessor. This is the site of the Presbyterian Church, which John and Annie Bidwell were instrumental in having built. The church long ago moved to First Street, at the north end of Broadway.

Head north on Broadway. Birkenstocks is one of the Waterland-Breslauer building tenants. I have visited the store twice. Six years ago, my wife and I bought sandals. A couple of weeks ago I went with my wife to replace her sandals. Mine are still in good shape. Because its footwear is so durable, Birkenstocks is one of those stores you don't visit very often.

Next up, the empty store that until recently housed Victorianna Antiques has a new tenant. Its nooks and crannies are once again full of antiques and collectibles. One of my fantasies is that the basement of this store provides one of the entryways to downtown’s legendary Chinese tunnels.

The tunnels are one of Chico’s most famous urban myths. Were they real? Probably not, but something close to them did exist. In his last interview, which appeared in the Chico State University alumni magazine Chico Statements, the late historian John Nopel said a basement once connected all the stores on the west side of Broadway between First and Second streets. He said there was even a dance hall down there.

Comments

This was an interesting post, Steve. Once when I happened to be in Elk Grove for some other reason I drove around the Laguna West area having read, I think, that Peter Calthorpe or some other noted neo-traditionalist had designed it. I, too, was disappointed and found it hard to pinpoint what was much different about it than any other blah suburban development.

The Delta region is one of those hidden-in-plain-sight areas of California that I've found most people have seldom visited. There is a pleasant, lazy kind of vibe there that just makes you want to slow down and have a beer.

Did you see the Hotel Ryde while you were there? It's close to Walnut Grove but on the other side of the river. It was built during Prohibition and was by all accounts a notorious speakeasy during that era.

Thanks for quoting me.

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