In this morning's Letters to the Editor are two outraged missives bemoaning the closing of the Redwood Forest restaurant, complete with threats to boycott the new business to be located there.

The owners, Les and Tracy Hord, have gone to great lengths to calm the waters. They say that the new business owners are nice folks, practically locals, and look forward to their high-end candy store. The Hords have always been first class.

I remember when I first came to Chico in 1997, there were two "fine dining" establishments in downtown Chico; the Black Crow and the Redwood Forest. In all of Chico, there were only two other restaurants with any cellar to boast of; the Red Tavern and the Albatross.

SInce then, of course, opportunities to enjoy both haute cuisine and excellent vintages have proliferated. Soon after my arrival, Christian Michaels and Creekside Cellars opened. And in the past decade, we've seen the arrival of 5th Street Steakhouse, Johnnies, 33 Steaks Booze and Jazz, Monk's Wine Lounge, and Vino100. All of these establishments are within easy walking distance of downtown.

Used to be that Redwood Forest was an oasis for the local oenophile. Its cellar was nationally recognized by Wine Spectator magazine for its exceptional collection of fine wines. The good news is that this outpost of good taste and discriminating palates made it possible for other wine-oriented businesses to establish a foothold.

The Redwood Forest was also a haven for jazz fans. One of the best projects I ever engineered was the Charlie Haynes Quintet+1, recorded live at the Redwood Forest restaurant. The Hords deserve a great deal of admiration for introducing so many people to great music, excellent cuisine, and fine wines.

And while it is certainly disappointing to see them close their doors, I must disagree with those who see this development as a sinister harbinger of doom. The fact that downtown has become a magnet for excellent restaurants in recent years is encouraging. The fact that rents are increasing for downtown locations is a sign of increased vitality in a district that has struggled to attract and retain successful operators. Finally, the fact that the new tenant is targeting the high-discretionary-income market segment is encouraging. The Redwood Forest enjoyed an upscale clientele, and were it to be replaced with yet another down-market lifestyle retailer, I'd be worried. This seems to be a positive indicator to me, and I look forward to seeing the new store open.

Best of luck to the Hords in whatever endeavor they pursue. Their passion, commitment to excellence, and attention to customer satsifaction will serve them well no matter what they choose to do. And thanks again for all the good times.