POST SCRIPTS

car's with a "unibody" (virtually without a frame) have at least a short frame rail starting in the first 10 inches of the trunk, on the floor and almost directly behind the tail light assembly. This is always a good place to check for damage.

I asked, "So if the car has had body damage and it's been repaired, how long will the typical repair last?" Dave explained that today most shops use plastic filler and it's perfectly suited to the job. It could last as long as the car, that is if it is mixed right and applied right! You may know this plastic filler by it's common trade or brand name, "Bondo".

Now we walked around the car and Dave stopped at the left rear door. See this area...Dave said, pointing to an area called the "dog leg" (because it is curved like one, duh.). Anyway, Dave points out that the gap between the door and the body is not even. It is generally gapped about 1/4, but at one point it tapers down to about an 1/8 of an inch, not much difference granted, but enough for a body man to suspect a rear end collision (it's our second clue this car has been hit pretty good in the rear end).

Now we inspected the door rubber. It should seat evenly or you will hear strange road or wind noises or worse...water leaks. Give this area a good looking over unless you like being hosed off at the car wash along with your car. However, if a rubber seal is badly damaged it can be replaced for about $65-$75, so it's not a deal killer, just a minor pain to fix.

Moving to the front of the vehicle, Dave says you can look at uneven tire wear, but most people wouldn't know if this is from alignment, collision damage or worn parts. If this is a questionable area, then it's best left to a professional to inspect when you do your safety inspection. And you should always do a safety inspection, right? Right! Turn signals, mufflers, horn, head lights, brakes, brake lights, seat belts tight steering, all functioning as they should and no broken glass, etc., ...need I really say more?

If a vehicle has had moderate to severe collision damage, it could be repaired properly and still be quite serviceable, it all depends on the quality of the repair work. But, one tell tale way to spot less than great repair work is to check the "upper tie bar". Look under the hood...this is a piece of square tubing that extends between the fenders and in front of the radiator near the top or the tank area. If it's tweaked, bent or dented, chances are the car has been tagged in this area and you should start looking for other damage. Again, the car could be perfectly sound, but this is just a clue there may be other damage you need to check out.

Dave said another easy way to spot front end damage is to see how the headlight buckets fit compared to the hood and fender. The gap should be even and the headlights should also be recessed evenly. If not, another red flag. Of course IF there is paint over-spray around the door jams, trunk and hood or on the windshield rubber, this means the car has been re-painted, but not necessary wrecked. Still, it's a reason to look closer and ask questions about the car's history.

Lastly, if the car has an aftermarket moon roof or sun roof, check it for leaks! Dave says he has had nothing but problems with aftermarket installations leaking.

If you want to check for damage history on your prospective purchase, you can use the internet. Here is one source called CARFAX They can tell you if the odometer has been rolled back or if there was an accident reported to the insurance company among other things. It's a great service and not very expensive. They can also tell you about a Salvage Title. If you don't know what that is, better learn. In most cases it means the car was declared a total loss and rebuilt. Even if a car is nearly new a salvage won't carry any guarantee from the mfg.

Well, that's about it for body damage. I hope this section was of some value. But, if you still have questions, feel free to ask. I will consult our experts and get right back to you!